Denim always stirs curiosity. As a matter of fact, the free spirit that has invariably livened up denim through the years pushes each season the boundaries further and further. SS18 introduced a bolder attitude with relaxed and wider outfits and even the deconstruction of staple items. AW18 embodies a more defiant attitude with super wide and amplified fits and a quirky reconstruction of denim classics. BIG and RECONSTRUCTION are the two new words that matter.
Casual, laidback and oversized are among the additional terms that defines the AW18 “new cool”. Defiance is in the air. Unexpected proportions take the lead. However since Rome was not built in a day, the standard fits, such as the slim, straight and regular still have room in the wardrobe for the late adopters. Washes are kept simple: raw, rinse or just stone washed indigos. And treatments are rather history. Fabrics have a soft handfeel for the sake of comfort. Some designers have made these fits more roomy for that purpose, mixing the sartorial flare of clean pieces with the relaxed attitude of genuine denim.
THE FUSSY CLASSICS
But because the winds of change are blowing, a bit of fuss is requested. The mix of different washes on reconstructed jeans adds dissent and non-conformism to staple silhouettes.Using inside-out fabric and moving specific jeans parts to unexpected ones bring an upcycled feeling and a dash of daring to bypass dullness.
Now onto the fundamental AW18 fit: the super wide amplified volume with unusual proportions. Oversized
jeans regain their momentum. We had the baggy in the past but baggy means nothing now compared to
this new silhouette. First of all, there is a new stylish flare to it. The new wide is not as grungy
as the baggy used to be. Fabrics help in that matter. They are compact with open weaves thus giving
structure. As for the washes, they come plain and flat. An overstated treatment is no option. The proportions are much bigger, wherever the designers want to bring volume, and lower bigger pockets and pleats help amplify the
volume. They come with or without rolled-up hems and the leg length varies.
here is an “uptown” taste in the FW18 women’s denim. Silhouettes are clean, fabrics are flat and simple and indigo
hues prevail. If the slim and skinny stretch jeans still have room on the rails, the non-stretch baggy and super wide fits take also the lead in women’s as the next must-have. No woman wants to cut off comfort but at the same
time women look for some femininity. The slim, skinny and straight silhouettes have a higher rise and are less tight for more comfort. They remain classy and casual at the same time. They truly capture the “less is more” essence. However, these fits mingle a bit with the riffraff with different waistband executions, exposed trims
and a mix of washes .
In this swanky vibe, defiance comes in the name of wide fits. The bigger, the better. They cover a wide array
of looks, from the classy to the tomboyish baggy and the unclassified ones. No disturbance on the washes.
They are clean. The fabrics have no stretch. The focus is on the volume.
THE CLASSY BAGGY TOMBOY
Some labels add drama with panelling, hip volume, pockets or bleached wash. These extreme illustrations
imply anything is now possible on a wide silhouette.
SHIRTS & JACKETS
Shirts and jackets follow the wide and reconstruction paths. Wash mix and substantial proportions revamp
these staple products. Wide is the next big thing reconstructing the denim offer/products with a brand-new
creative language. C.F.