What happens next when fashion is a bit too ceremonial and conventional? The formal dress codes take a break and give way to a light-hearted spirit. There is always, also, something happening in denim.We can feel these days a fresh breeze of lightness and carelessness blowing on denim. Denim has always been an expression of freedom for the young urban consumers aged 18 to 25 with pants, shirts and trucker jackets, the genuine denim pieces. Recently, the European catwalks have shown a fuller range of denim products, leaving the original denim codes aside to explore new paths and new silhouettes.
Lightweight materials, flowy bottoms, and wide fits lead the way.Wide and light denim become a must-have because they can be worn with any look, whether it is a blouse, a jacket, or a fleece and allow adding volume on any item. Pleated skirts, large shirt dresses, oversized jackets and relaxed pants then find their momentum. Because volume prevails, every silhouette becomes possible. Lightweight fabrics, blended ones, Tencel®, and chambrays are great options. Lightweight compact materials are also interesting and helpful to give some structure.
Public School Marques Almeida
Stella McCartney Christian Dior
Men’s Jeanswear trends lately showed true sartorial looks highlighting the art of tailoring, neat and sleek. Deconstruction is on the way. The current move is on to a bolder attitude with less formal attire. Low key and simple designs matter. Men are looking for comfortable and relaxed outfits in lightweight fabrics.Bottoms are definitely shifting: fits are wider, darts are making a comeback and legs are cropped. However, a tailored workmanship keeps grounded to give an informal classy hint to laid-back styles and workwear inspirations find a less core expression.
Red casts and neat indigos lead the way. Stonewashed or bleached, the finishes are flat and even. Patches and frays are the only embellishments wanted. Patched denim is definitely a strong statement. Inspired by paneling, they have geometrical designs.Lightweight fabrics are essential whether compact and stiff to give the wide fits some structure. Stretch denim faces a first slight decrease since the large and slouchy fit does not need a stretch.The denim pant focuses these days on volume to work on wider fits. Volume is added at the waist with darts and on the thighs. The leg opening remains smaller and hems are still cropped and rolled-up.Curved outseams are also back after two decades of straight ones. Seen on the catwalks, they come with a raised waist. They bring more comfort and outline a modern softer silhouette.A lower crotch is another option to enhance the volume.
The straight fit remains a wardrobe staple of course but hems are revamped. Curved or asymmetrical, rolled up or neat, they are the straight fit update. Tailored textured fabrics and stiff materials give an unexpected finish and take this traditional fit to a new level. Finally the tops also experience some changes. Shirt bodies are longer and larger. Tanks or sleeveless tops are back. Oversized boxy tees show how “chichi” belongs to the past. At the end of the 20’s of the 21st century, denim still means freedom. C.F.
Topman Design Chistopher Shannon AW17